Update 12/5/24 - added some additional gear I’ve been using and have lately added to my inventory.

Update 12/23/23 - Earlier this am I was quickly, and bluntly, reminded that winter is coming. I headed out to walk the dog and was struck by a brisk 40°. I had to head back inside and grab a jacket for the outing. The cold also reminded me that soon we will be heading out on the trail in frigid temperatures. While this post is over a decade old (11/5/2013), the advice remains the same. I’ve updated some of the info to keep it more relevant. Hope you find it useful.

No, I'm not a Stark - just stating fact. And, with winter, as we all know, comes cold weather...

Cold weather doesn't mean you have to stop riding, it just means you have to dress a little smarter to combat the elements so that your riding experience is just as enjoyable as it is durning the warm months.

Here are a few tips, learned over the years, that will help you enjoy your bike deep into the winter months and when the mercury hits even below zero.

The Basics

Over the years I've found that if I set out on a winter ride and I'm warm or hot before I even start a single pedal stroke, the experience will be a miserable one. As a rule of thumb you want to be a little bit cold before you begin. Once you start pedaling your body will provide the necessary heat to keep you comfortable.

You'll definitely need to cover the basics; You'll surely already have a good set of cycling shorts with adequate padding, these will provide the staring point for the rest of your gear and the foundation of your core layer.

Dressing in "layers" is essential for winter cycling. In general your attire will consist of three layers and some other essential accessories:

1. The Base/Core layer

2. The Middle Layer

3. The Shell/Outer Layer

4. Additional items

The Base Layer

The purpose of the "core" layer, or base layer, is to wick moisture away from your body so that you remain dry and warm throughout the ride. This layer should be snug to your body and consist of a fabric that can move that perspiration away from your skin. Avoid cotton at all costs for this layer since cotton will retain moisture close to your body and ultimately make you colder. High-tech synthetic fibers like polypropylene will serve you well here. Wool (particularly the Merino variety) is a great fabric to consider for your base layer.

For my base layer I generally wear the same cycling unders I use in the summer months, a thin Smartwool Merino wool or polypro top, and a thin set of calf-high Merino wool socks, also from Smartwool. I generally stick to my regular full-finger cycling gloves and regular cycling shoes. Not until the weather gets really cold (below 40°) will I start wearing my winter specific cycling gloves or shoes. On cold days when I'm not entirely sure what gloves to wear I'll pack an extra pair (heavy or lighter than what I set out with) on my jersey pockets. Handup makes a great light weight winter glove that’s suitable for the Mid Atlantic. For the really cold days I’ll generally put a set of winter bar mitts on the bars and bring along some hand warmers.

The Middle Layer

Next you need to focus on your middle layer. This layer will supplement your base/core layer and also provide some moisture wicking capabilities. Your middle layer will provide air circulation above your base layer and for that reason should be somewhat looser than your base layer. This layer, in general, will be the one that varies the most and will be highly dependent on the temperature and the level of activity you engage in. This will undoubtedly be the layer you will experiment with the most. In time you'll learn exactly what suits you best.

Depending on the temperature I'll generally wear a regular long sleeve cycling jersey or a short/long sleeve wool jersey. My favorite top has become a long sleeve Merino wool jersey from Oregon Cycle Wear. Even when damp, the jersey retains heat and keeps me warm and comfortable. For my bottoms I'll either wear a pair of knickers or cycling tights over my padded unders to cover my legs. Endura makes some great waterproof winter pants that will keep you dry and warm. My favorite are the 3/4 length Humvee’s; these, over a pair of generic tights will go a long way.

I’ve also started wearing some long pants, including non-cycling specific gear from Kühl, particularly their Renegade Rock pant. I stumbled on these by accident. I purchased a pair for a hiking trip and one day I tried them on a ride. They were perfect. They have ample pockets for “stuff” and flex in all the right places. They even have an ankle “cinch” that helps the cuffs stay clear of moving parts and, more importantly, keep cold air out. I’ve already used them a couple of times in sub 40° temperatures and they have kept me nice and comfortable. I suspect that with some light tights they’ll be golden in the 20s…

The Shell/Outer Layer

Finally it's time to address your shell or outer layer. The primary purpose of this "top" layer is to keep the outside elements away from your body. The shell layer will act as a wind breaker and moisture "barrier". It, however, needs to be breathable so that it allows for the moisture from within to escape.

I generally use a light Gore-Tex jacket with adjustable vents in the armpit area that keeps both wind and water away from my body but also lets perspiration escape. When the weather gets really cold (30° and below) I'll add a pair of Gore-Tex pant shells and replace the light jacket with a heavier jacket with a lined inner - effectively doubling up my middle layer. Pearl Izumi makes a ton of great gear to cover you, no pun intended, here.

Additional Items

In addition to the above, I highly suggest you invest in a high quality pair of cycling shoes and gloves and some "head" gear.

I have made a considerable investment in shoes and gloves. Personally, if my digits are cold, no amount of warmth in my core body will keep me riding. I recently set out on an early morning ride and completely underestimated how cold it was; my fingers were numb within 3 miles and I was forced to turn around and finish earlier than I expected. By the time I made it back to the starting point my fingers were frozen and all desire to keep riding was gone.

For mild temperatures I use a set of Gore-Tex shoe covers and mild winter gloves. But once the temperatures drops below 40° I wear my winter specific Lake shoes and Pearl Izumi winter gloves. Gloves are critical, find a pair of specifically designed cycling winter gloves that fit your hands - nothing too tight. These gloves are built specifically to provide you with the adequate movement and flexibility you need to manage and use your bike's cockpit controls. You can add another layer of warmth to your hands by adding Bar Mitts. I’ve found that I can wear lighter gloves with these on. Bar Mitts are a god send on really cold days.

To cover my ears and head I generally wear a Halo Band for as long as the temperatures permit just to keep sweat off my eyes. But once the temperature hits below the mid 40s I'll swap it for a Halo skull cap that covers my ears and provides a little warmth and protection from the wind. When the temps go below the mid 30s I'll use a Gordini Baclava full head cover that protects my head and neck and covers my ears, nose, and mouth.

Even when it is "relatively" warm (45° - 59°) I wear a thin wool neck wrap (actually a Smartwool head band) around my neck. When the temperature starts dipping really low I'll swap that with a thicker, larger, and warmer neck gaiter; The neck gaiter and some good ear covers will serve much the same purpose as the full face Baclava, which I reserve for really cold days.

Other accessories I have in my winter cycling drawer are smartwool arm warmers and smartwool leg warmers.

Finally...

There are many people that will argue that you don’t need cycling specific apparel to stay warm; That's true; You can find lots of gear out at Target, K-Mart, Walmart, and other box retailers that will help keep you warm. Ultimately, you want to outfit yourself with gear meant for and designed for the task at hand. Quality gear is an investment, and once you do get it, you should treat it as such. Care for it like the manufacturer recommends and it will stay with you for season after season. I've been riding for over 30 years and in all honesty a lot of my gear has seen more than 5 seasons on it Some of my wool jerseys, for example, are over 10 years old and still have plenty of life in them. My thermal tights have also been with me for nearly 15 years.

I also try to purchase my winter gear during the off-season and recommend you do the same. With cold also comes the dark, don’t be afraid of it…

Update 11/27/13

My buddy Pete Beers has written a great post about staying warm AND dry on the bike; You can find, "Baby it's cold outside… and wet" on his blog, I Love My Commute  (and below in it's entirety). You'll notice a "pattern" between what I wrote here and the gear he itemizes in his post.

Baby it's cold outside.... and wet.

Wednesday, November 27, 2013
By Pete Beers

I left the house at about 7am and didn't get home until bout 4pm in the afternoon.  I stopped a few times to warm up with coffee and get some lunch, but I was out doing advocacy work the vast majority of the day.

I've been talking a lot about winter clothing, but I haven't really talked about what to do when it is raining and cold.  I got quite a few questions from friends on Facebook who were also out riding yesterday.  Many of them got very cold and wanted to know what I wore.

Here's the laundry list:

Core: Castelli early winter long sleeve base layer, Rapha wool jersey with an Endura Flyte rain jacket on top.

Legs: Giro New Road wool blend bibs with Hincapie winter (fleece) shorts on top. Both had chamois, so I'm doubled up there. Over the top I used Endura Venturi 3/4 rain knickers. Embrocation on my lower legs (exposed skin) was Mad Alchemy Cold Weather - Medium.

Feet: Swiftwick merino wool socks. Lake winter boots (MTB version sealed with SnoSeal bees wax sealant). Outdoor Research goretex gaters over the top.

Hands: I changed gloves 4 hours into the ride since my first pair of gloves were wet. Assos liner gloves with Pearl Izumi WXB Lobster Glvoes (last year's model. Mostly waterproof and super warm) were good from 7am-1:30pm. I switched to Assos Liner gloves (the same ones from the morning...still wet) with Assos Early Winter gloves as a middle layer and Pearl Izumi WXB shell gloves over the top. The PI WXB shell gloves have no insulation, but are almost completely water proof and wind proof. My hands started out cold, but within 10 minutes were toasty warm and stayed there for the last 2.5 hours of my ride.

Head: Assos rain hat with a Laser Helium helmet with lexan cover on it that seals up all the vents.

When I felt myself getting too warm, I did one of two things... I either unzipped the jacket a few inches, or if it was raining a lot, I just backed off the riding a little and let my body back off generating so much heat.

When I got home, my jersey and shorts were dry. My base layer was a little damp from perspiration, but most of that came in the last few climbs at the end of the day. My feet were dry and warm. My hands were wet, but warm.

There are three, maybe four jackets on the market these days that I'm aware of that can do what mine did today. None are cheap. Assos Sturmprinz is by far the best. Endura makes the Flyte and Venturi jackets. Rapha's rain jacket is legit. Showers Pass' top of the line jacket works great, Is the cheapest of the bunch, but seems to have build quality and endurance issues.

I've never found a garment that works as well as the Endura Venturi knickers, though in all honesty, I have not tried Assos rain pants. I'd guess they are up to the task.

Sorry that the answers all involve spending money. Rain + Cold has no inexpensive remedy. I know of some folks that do well with rain capes. They don't have to breathe because they're totally open at the bottom. For me, one gust of wind and I'm soaked.